If you have ever knitted a flat piece in stockinette stitch, you know the struggle. No matter how much you block it, the sides curl inward, and the top and bottom curl up. It's frustrating.
This is not a flaw in your knitting; it's just the physics of the stitch. A knit stitch is slightly wider and shorter than a purl stitch. Over a large piece of fabric, this slight difference in tension builds up, causing the fabric to curl toward the "purl" side.
Knitters have many solutions for this, such as a garter-stitch border, but none is as elegant, clean, and professional as the i-cord edge.
This guide will be your complete masterclass. We will explore what an i-cord edge is, why it works, and the two primary ways to knit it. By the end, you will be able to add a perfect, roll-free border to any project.
The Essentials of I-Cord Edging: Quick Guide
- What It Is: An i-cord edge is a three or 4-stitch knitted tube that is seamlessly attached to the vertical side of your knitting as you work.
- The Main Benefit: It creates a stable, rounded, and substantial border that completely prevents stockinette stitch from curling.
- Method 1 (As-You-Go): You add 3-4 extra stitches to your cast-on. You slip and knit these stitches on alternating rows as you knit your main project.
- Method 2 (Applied): On a finished project, you pick up stitches along the edge and then knit an i-cord, attaching it as you go. This is great for fixing old projects or for necklines.
- The Key: The "magic" happens when you slip the stitches, which carry the yarn across the edge, forcing it to roll into a tube.
iCord Knitting Machine You May Shop
What Is I Cord Edge Knitting?
An I-cord edge is a knitted border that creates a sturdy, rolled, and neat-looking edge on projects like scarves, shawls, and blankets.
It is made by adding a few extra stitches to the beginning and end of each row and working them in a specific way, usually by slipping some stitches and knitting others, to form a narrow tube of fabric along the side.
This technique provides stability and a finished appearance that looks the same on both sides of the work.
🧶Also Read: Knitting Terms You Should Know: Full Glossary Guide
The 3 Big Benefits (Why You'll Love This Technique)
- It Stops Stockinette Curl (For Good): This is the number one reason to use it. The i-cord is a 3D, structural tube. It acts like a frame, holding the stockinette fabric flat and preventing the edges from rolling in. It provides the stability that stockinette lacks on its own.
- It Creates a Durable, Professional Finish: This edge looks clean. It is rounded, neat, and gives your project a high-end, store-bought appearance. It hides any messy selvedge stitches and gives your work a polished look.
- It Adds Stability and Weight: The edge is dense and firm. This makes it perfect for the edges of blankets, shawls, and especially the front button bands of cardigans. It adds a bit of weight so the edges hang nicely and provides a stable, non-stretching edge to sew buttons onto.
Best Projects for an I-Cord Edge
You can add an i-cord edge to almost any flat-knitted project. It is most popular for:
- Scarves (especially stockinette or simple-stitch scarves)
- Blankets and afghans
- Shawl edges
- Cardigan front bands
- Dishcloths, placemats, or coasters
How to Knit an Attached I-Cord Edge (The As-You-Go Method)
This is the most common method and my personal favorite for new projects like scarves or blankets. You create the i-cord edge at the same time as your main project. It is magical to watch it form.
Before You Start: The Setup
- The Math: You must add extra stitches to your cast-on for the i-cord. The standard is a 3-stitch i-cord. If you want this edge on both vertical sides (like for a scarf), you must add 6 extra stitches (3 for the right, 3 for the left).
- Our Example: We will knit a 3-stitch i-cord edge on both sides of a stockinette stitch panel.
- The Yarn: Be aware that this technique does use slightly more yarn than a simple edge, as you are creating a dense, 3D cord on both sides. Plan to have about 10-15% extra yarn just to be safe.
Step-by-Step: The As-You-Go I-Cord Edge (for Stockinette)
Let's say your scarf pattern calls for 30 stitches. You will cast on 36 stitches (30 for the pattern + 3 for the right edge + 3 for the left edge).
Cast on 36 stitches.
Row 1 (RS / Right Side):
- Knit the first 3 stitches (this is your right i-cord).
- Work your main pattern (e.g., knit all stitches) until you have 3 stitches left.
- With your yarn in the back of the work (YIB), slip the last 3 stitches purlwise (as if you were going to purl them).
Row 2 (WS / Wrong Side):
- Purl the first 3 stitches (this is your right i-cord).
- Work your main pattern (e.g., purl all stitches) until you have 3 stitches left.
- With your yarn in the front of the work (YIF), slip the last 3 stitches purlwise.
Repeat these two rows for the entire length of your project.
How it Works (The "Aha!" Moment)
This pattern can seem confusing until you see the magic.
- On Row 1 (RS): You slip the last 3 stitches. The yarn is already in the back (where you knit), so it's ready.
- On Row 2 (WS): You turn your work. Those 3 slipped stitches are now the first 3 stitches on your needle. You purl them. To do this, you must bring the yarn from the back around the edge to the front. This "wrap" is what pulls the 3 stitches together.
- Then, on that same row, you slip the last 3 stitches with the yarn in front. When you turn to the RS, you must knit those stitches. The yarn wraps around the edge to the back.
This constant wrapping of the yarn around those 3-stitch columns on either side is what pulls them into a tight, rounded tube.
Pro-Tip: Managing Your Tension (The #1 Problem)
Many knitters try this and say, "My i-cord edge looks loopy and messy!" This is the most common problem, and it is 100% solvable.
The problem is tension. It is very easy for the slipped stitches to become loose. The "slack" builds up and creates an ugly, floppy loop.
Here is the expert fix: The problem is not the 3 i-cord stitches. The problem is the first stitch of your main panel (the 4th stitch on the row).
- When you work Row 1 (RS), you knit the first 3 stitches. Before you knit that 4th stitch, give your working yarn a firm, gentle tug. This will pull any slack from the i-cord stitches and snug them up.
- When you work Row 2 (WS), you purl the first 3 stitches. Before you purl that 4th stitch, give your working yarn a firm, gentle tug.
This simple tug on the 4th stitch of every row is the secret to a neat, tight, and professional i-cord edge. It takes practice, but once you get a rhythm, it becomes second nature.
🧶Also Read: How to Bind Off Knitting Like a Pro in 8 Easy Steps
How to Knit an Applied I-Cord Edge (The "Add-On" Method)
This method is your secret weapon for fixing projects or adding an edge to a shape that is not a simple rectangle. You use it on a finished project.
It is perfect for:
- Rescuing a stockinette scarf that is already finished and curling.
- Adding a beautiful, stable edge to a cardigan neckline or button band.
- Adding a contrasting color border to a blanket.
- Finishing the curved edges of an armhole.
Step-by-Step Tutorial (3-Stitch Applied Edge)
For this, you will need your finished project and a circular needle or a Double-Pointed Needle (DPN).
1. Pick Up Stitches:
- Hold your finished project with the Right Side facing you.
- Starting at one corner (e.g., the bottom right), pick up and knit stitches along the entire vertical edge you want to finish.
- Pro-Tip: The standard, no-fail ratio for a stockinette edge is to pick up 3 stitches for every 4 rows. If you pick up too many, the edge will ruffle. If you pick up too few, it will pucker.
2. The Cast-On:
- You now have all your edge stitches on your needle. Do not turn your work.
- Slide the stitches to the other end of your circular needle (this is why circulars are great).
- Your first picked-up stitch should be at the needle tip.
- Using a knitted cast-on or cable cast-on, cast on 3 new stitches onto the left needle. (These are your i-cord stitches).
3. The "Knit & Attach" Row:
- Knit 2 of the new stitches.
- Knit the 3rd stitch together with the first picked-up stitch from the project body. (You can use a k2tog or an ssk for a slightly different look, but k2tog is common).
- You now have 3 stitches on your right needle.
4. The "Slide":
- Do not turn your work.
- Slide those 3 stitches from the right needle tip back to the left needle tip.
5. Repeat:
- Repeat Step 3: Knit 2, k2tog (knitting the last i-cord stitch with the next picked-up stitch).
- Repeat Step 4: Slide the 3 stitches back to the left needle.
Continue this process (Knit 2, k2tog, SLIDE) all the way down the edge. You are knitting a cord and attaching it to the body one stitch at a time.
6. Finishing:
- When you have worked all the picked-up stitches and only your 3 i-cord stitches remain, bind them off.
- For a truly professional finish (like on a neckline), you can use the Kitchener stitch to graft these 3 live stitches to the 3 new stitches you cast on at the beginning, creating a perfectly invisible join.
For a Detailed Tutorial, please watch this Video 📹:
Pro-Tip: How to Handle Corners with an Applied I-Cord
What if you are working around a blanket corner? If you just keep going, the i-cord will pull the corner, making it pucker.
You need to add "ease" by working a few i-cord rows without attaching them.
- Work the "Knit 2, k2tog, Slide" method until you have attached the i-cord to the very last stitch before the corner.
- Knit 3 (your i-cord stitches). Slide them back.
- Knit 3 again. Slide them back.
- Knit 3 one more time. Slide them back.
- By working 2-3 rows of i-cord alone, you have built up extra length. Now, resume the "Knit 2, k2tog" method, attaching the 3rd stitch to the first stitch after the corner. This extra fabric will allow the i-cord to turn the corner smoothly.
Conclusion
The i-cord edge is one of the most valuable techniques a knitter can learn, instantly elevating a project from "homemade" to "handmade-professional." It is the difference between a project that looks "pretty good" and one that looks truly finished.
Whether you choose the seamless "as-you-go" method for a new scarf or the "applied" method to rescue a curling blanket, this technique is the ultimate solution for unruly edges.
Don't be intimidated. The little bit of extra effort to learn this edge pays off tenfold in the quality and durability of your finished knitting. Grab some scrap yarn, cast on 20 stitches, and try the "as-you-go" method. You will be hooked.
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FAQs About I-Cord Edge Knitting
How many stitches should an I-cord edge have?
An I-cord edge usually has three stitches, which creates a neat and rounded border. You can adjust it to two stitches for a thinner edge or four for a wider one, depending on your project’s look. Three stitches are most common because they balance structure and flexibility.
Does an i-cord edge use more yarn?
Yes, an I-cord edge uses more yarn than a standard edge. The extra yarn is needed to form the cord-like structure that wraps around the edge of the fabric. While the difference is small, it’s best to plan for about 10–15% more yarn to avoid running short before finishing your project.
What's the difference between an i-cord edge and an i-cord bind-off?
An I-cord edge is knitted along the sides of a piece as you go, giving a clean, rounded border. An I-cord bind-off is worked at the end of a project to finish the top edge with the same polished look. Both create a tubular finish, but one runs vertically on edges while the other runs horizontally on bind-offs.
Can I knit an I-cord edge on a garter stitch project?
Yes, an I-cord edge pairs beautifully with garter stitch. It hides uneven side stitches and adds a professional, finished look. You can attach it as you knit or pick up stitches along the side later. Using a matching or slightly contrasting color makes the texture stand out even more.
