How to Make Patches with Embroidery Machine: Easy Guide

If you want to learn how to make patches with an embroidery machine, you are in the right place.

Embroidered patches are a stylish way to personalize jackets, bags, or even uniforms. Best of all, you do not need to order from a factory to get them. With the right tools and a little practice, anyone can make high-quality patches right at home.

In this guide, I will walk you through everything from materials to step-by-step instructions, so even beginners can follow along with ease.

Quick Takeaways 🧶:

You can make patches with an embroidery machine by choosing the right stabilizer, fabric, and thread
Hoop your fabric tightly and use an embroidery patch design for best results
Apply backing (heat-seal, adhesive, or sew-on) depending on how you’ll attach the patch
Trim carefully and finish edges with a satin stitch for a professional look
Practice on scrap fabric before making final patches

Why Trust This Guide?

This article is written based on direct experience with embroidery machines and embroidery software used for digitizing patch designs.

The steps reflect tested methods that embroidery hobbyists and small business owners use.

Techniques backed by embroidery supply companies like Madeira and Gunold, who recommend polyester thread and twill fabric for patches.
Practices for durability (like heat-seal backing) follow industry standards used in patch-making shops.

Applying these expert tips ensures readers don’t just learn theory but real, hands-on methods that work.

What You Need to Make Patches with an Embroidery Machine

Before you begin stitching, gather the necessary materials. Having the proper supplies will make your patches look professional and last longer.

Embroidery machine: A home single-needle machine or a professional multi-needle machine will work. The difference is that multi-needle machines are faster and can accommodate more colors simultaneously.
Stabilizer: This is key to keeping your fabric from stretching. Cutaway stabilizer works best for long-lasting patches. Tear-away can work for lighter projects.
Embroidery Fabric: Choose sturdy fabric such as twill, denim, felt, or canvas. These fabrics hold the stitches better.
Embroidery thread: Polyester thread is preferred because it holds color well and can withstand washing.
Embroidery floss: Good to have on hand if you want to add extra detail later.
Patch design file: You will need a digitized embroidery file in the format your machine reads.
Adhesive spray or fusible backing: This helps secure the patch to clothing or bags.
Heat-seal backing: An option for iron-on patches.
Scissors and trimming tools: Sharp, curved embroidery scissors help to cut patches neatly.

Pro tip: Avoid thin cottons or stretchy knit fabrics for patches. They don’t hold up well and create messy edges.

Step-by-Step: How to Make Patches with an Embroidery Machine

Step 1: Choosing the Right Patch Design

A good design sets the foundation for a patch. Unlike embroidery on clothing, patches need clean borders and clear, bold shapes that stand out.

Why it matters: Patches are viewed from a distance. If the design is too detailed, the stitch work will blur and won’t look professional.

What to keep in mind:

Start with simple shapes. Circles and rectangles are easier to edge neatly than custom outlines. For beginners, try 2 to 4-inch patches.
Bold details work best. Think thick lettering, logos, or simple symbols. Avoid using tiny text or thin lines, as they tend to disappear in stitching.
Use digitized patch files. Embroidery patch designs include placement and border stitches not found in regular embroidery files. Without digitizing, your patch will lack strong edges.
Software guidance. Programs like Hatch, Embrilliance, or InkStitch allow you to add a satin stitch border. If you buy premade designs, ensure they’re labeled for patches.

Expert tip: If you’re digitizing your own designs, ensure the satin stitch border is at least 3 mm wide. This ensures it fully covers the cut edge.

🧶Also Read: The Best Embroidery Machine For Custom Designs

Step 2: Preparing Fabric and Stabilizer

This stage is about setting up your canvas. The patch’s durability depends heavily on the choice of stabilizer and fabric.

Patches endure wear and washing. Without strong fabric and stabilizer, stitches will warp or come loose.

Here’s how to prepare:

Choose a sturdy base fabric. Polyester twill is the industry standard. It’s tightly woven, smooth, and resists fraying. Felt is a forgiving choice since it doesn’t fray, but it looks less polished for business use. Denim and canvas are also good options.
Select a stabilizer wisely.
- Cutaway stabilizer gives maximum strength. It stays behind the stitches permanently, preventing distortion.
- Tear-away stabilizer can be used, but it’s better for lighter duty patches where flexibility matters.
Hoop fabric with stabilizer. Cut pieces slightly larger than your hoop. Lay the fabric on the stabilizer and lightly spray the temporary adhesive to prevent slipping.
Check hoop tension. Tug at the edges. The fabric should sit flat and tight like a drumhead. Any slack will cause puckering once you start stitching.

Personal insight: When I rushed hooping early on, I often saw my machine pull the fabric slightly out of place, ruining designs. A secure hook saves you wasted time and thread.

Step 3: Stitching the Patch Outline and Design

Now comes the exciting part: watching your machine bring the patch to life. But the order of stitching steps is important.

Each type of stitch has a specific purpose, ranging from marking the fabric to sealing the edges. Skipping or misordering them can ruin the patch.

The four stages of patch stitching:

Placement stitch
- A simple line stitched on your stabilizer or base fabric.
- Think of it as a guide: it shows exactly where the patch will go before adding fabric layers.
Tackdown stitch
- This secures the patch material to the stabilizer so it doesn’t shift mid-project.
- Usually, a zig-zag or running stitch holds fabric in place.
Main design stitching
- The embroidery machine fills in your logo, text, or artwork.
- Use 40 wt polyester embroidery thread to keep colors bold.
- Reduce speed slightly (around 600–700 stitches per minute) on home machines for smoother results.
Satin stitch border
- This is what makes a patch a patch. A dense, wide border covers the raw edge of the fabric.
- The border also adds durability, preventing the fabric from unraveling.
- Many professionals also run a “merrow-style satin edge” to give the patch a commercial finish.

Expert tip: Change your needle every 8–10 patches. A sharp needle prevents skipped stitches and keeps edges tight.

Step 4: Finishing Your Patch

Once out of the hoop, your patch needs final touches before it’s wearable or ready for sale.

A clean finish ensures your patch looks professional and can be applied securely.

Finishing steps:

Trim edges. Use curved embroidery scissors or a patch die cutter to cut close to the satin border. Be careful not to cut the actual stitches.
Seal edges (optional). For synthetic fabrics like felt, gently run a lighter near the edges to melt away loose threads. For natural fibers, use fabric sealant.
Apply backing. Choose based on how you want the patch attached:
- Heat-seal backing. Makes patches iron-on. Fuse with an iron or heat press.
- Peel-and-stick adhesive. Suitable for temporary or removable patches.
- No backing. Leave plain if the patch is meant to be sewn on.

Pro tip: If making iron-on patches, test the adhesive on a scrap first. Some adhesives require specific temperatures to form a strong bond.

Step 5: Testing and Quality Check

Many beginners overlook this, but it’s an essential step for professional results.

Wash a test patch to see if edges fray.
Pull gently on the patch to check if the stitches hold firm.
Look closely for gaps in the satin stitch.

Creating a high-quality sample before producing a batch saves wasted effort if an error exists in your digitized file.

🧶Also Read: 10 Basic Embroidery Stitches Every Crafter Must Know

Pro Tips for Professional Results

Use polyester threads from trusted brands like Isacord, Madeira, or Floriani. They are colorfast and long-lasting.
Size matters. Small letters under ¼ inch tall usually stitch poorly. Keep designs bold.
Change machine needles often to maintain clean stitching.
Batch production trick. Hoop a large piece of fabric and embroider multiple patches, then cut them apart at the end.
Keep notes. Log thread colors, stabilizer type, and settings for each project. This makes repeat orders easy.

Common Mistakes to Avoid ⚠️

Through trial and error, I’ve run into these common issues, and they’re avoidable with preparation:

Loose hooping. Causes misalignment and puckered patches.
Skipping stabilizer. Results in warped, stretched designs that don’t last.
Cheap thread. Breaks or fades after a few washes.
Cutting too close. Can compromise stitches and cause unraveling.
Over-complicated designs. Remember, patches are small. Simple, bold designs always win.

Conclusion

Making patches with an embroidery machine is part art, part technique. By selecting the right design, preparing your fabric and stabilizer correctly, following the proper stitching sequence, and finishing with care, you can create patches that look professional and last for years.

Start with simple designs, such as round patches, and work your way up to more detailed logos.

The more you practice, the faster and cleaner your results will become. Whether your goal is DIY personalization or starting a side business, patches are one of the most practical embroidery projects you can master.

Explore embroidery collections and start stitching your first patch today:

FAQs About How to Make Patches with an Embroidery Machine

What is the best type of stabilizer for making patches with a clean, fabric-free edge?

The consensus among professional embroiderers is Water-Soluble Stabilizer (WSS), particularly the fibrous, heavier-weight varieties. When hooped tautly and dissolved after stitching, WSS leaves a clean, thread-wrapped edge that mimics the commercial "merrowed" look, essential for premium-quality embroidery machine patches.

Do I need digitizing software?

Yes. Patches need a digitized file with placement, tack down, and a satin border to finish cleanly. Proper underlay and density settings prevent puckering and frayed edges. If you do not digitize, buy a ready made patch file made for your hoop.

What's the difference between a sew-on patch and an iron-on patch backing?

The difference lies in the final application material. A sew-on patch uses a stiff backing (like a heavy cut-away or buckram) and is intended to be secured with a needle and thread. An iron-on patch has a heat-activated adhesive material (like Heat-n-Bond) applied to the back, allowing it to be affixed to a garment with a household iron or heat press. Iron-on is quicker, while sew-on offers the most permanent hold.

How thick should a patch be?

Aim for about 1 to 2 mm total thickness after backing and border. This keeps the patch firm but still easy to sew or iron on. Too thick can cause needle breaks and poor bonding, while too thin can curl at the edges.

Why is my patch puckering during the embroidery process?

Puckering is a common issue often caused by insufficient stabilization. To fix this, ensure your stabilizer is hooped drum-tight (no wrinkles), and consider using a heavier-weight stabilizer, especially for designs with a high stitch count or dense satin borders. Adjusting your machine's thread tension may also help resolve the issue.

Will patches hold up in the wash?

Yes, if you stitch with polyester thread and use a proper backing or heat seal. Wait 24 hours after applying before washing. Turn the item inside out, use a gentle cycle with cold water, and avoid bleach and harsh detergents. If an edge lifts, re press with a cloth to reseal.